As you may have read already, the curly girl method is a collection of techniques and products used to create better health for your hair and beautiful curls.
There are quite a lot of rules around what you can and cant do. Some of the stand out ones are using products free of sulphates, silicones, Parabens and drying alcohols. Ill make a list of ingredients you should be looking out for when purchasing products. Otherwise when I was first starting out I just went onto sites I knew already had curly girl approved products so I didn’t need to worry about whether it was ok to use or not.
One website which I found great was www.thecurlstore.com.au, and if you’re in New Zealand www.curlsnaturally.co.nz
Firstly there is a bunch of terminology that you will also need to get familiar with. Some of the most common would be co~washing, low poo, ACV rinse, squish to condish, plop and cast.
And some styling techniques will be described as praying hands, bowl method, finger coiling and scrunch out the crunch.
I’ll run through what some of these mean and demonstrate how to do them over the next few blogs so we can get you up to date with how to follow along on other curly girl sites and pages.
Although i do follow the curly girl method in the salon, its not something i am super strict with and alot of my customers have become less strict over the year. Im here to simplify the method so this post will seem to bombard you with information but rest assure you will only need to take what you need from it in the beginning.
Big Chop
A big chop is really just getting a good haircut to rid of any damaged that has been done to your hair by hot tools, products or colour. Its usually the first thing you want to think about doing when starting out the method so you give your curls the best chance they have.
I know some of you might be attached to long hair but I assure you its the best way to start fresh with a clean healthy slate. And you definitely don’t need to go pixie, but to a healthier length.
Bonnet
A bonnet is a silk or satin sleep cap that helps to stop any breakage while you sleep.
Bowl Method
The bowl method is where you apply your product over a bowl of water, dipping your hair into the water and scrunching it in as you come up. It helps to get even distribution but also helps to retain moisture. You can do this method with conditioner or styling products.
Brushing
Brushing is technically a big no no as it causes breakage. But there are now curl detangle brushes you can purchase. Just be sure to do it while your hair is wet and conditioned. A wide tooth comb is suffice also.
Buff
A slip that goes over your hair to protect it
Puff Cuff
A small or larger Round clip accessory to help pull your girls up without the damage of a hair-tie. Resembles an old school banana clip but rounded.
Build up
Is simply just a build up of products, dirt of grease on your hair and scalp that needs to be clarified either by doing ACV rinse or clarifying shampoo.
Bumble and bumble Sunday shampoo is a great clarifying shampoo to use as your final wash and when you have build up.
Cast
A cast is when gel drys on your hair and goes hard.
I know this sounds like something you would have wanted in the 80’s but not now. Trust me, a cast plays a big role in your curly girl styling routine.
Clumps
Clumps are sections of the hair that stick together when you are washing. The better the clumps the better your curls will be.
Co wash
Washing your hair with conditioner only. This is a step that not all curly girls follow but it is recommended if you ever read the book.
When I have co washed I have still scrubbed at my scalp as though I am shampooing my hair so im sure to lift any dirt and oil that may be building up.
Its not a step for me as I get quite oily roots but there are a few customers of mine that do it and have great success so if you get really dry frizzy hair and scalp you are a great contender for co washing
Colouring your hair
So colouring your hair is something you want to try and steer clear of especially lightening your hair. Its without a doubt the most damaging colour which results in pretty pathetic curls.
I have however still seen good results still with permanent or semi permanent colours so its not ruled out completely.
I will however say that if your someone not willing to give up your blonde hair you can still do both but I would recommend using Olaplaex treatments once a week to help keep the bonds of your hair strong. Another alternative is going a more golden/darker blonde.
Crunch
Is another word for cast. Essentially just breaking down the hard cast to reveal beautiful soft curls
(scrunch out the crunch)
Curl types
Recognising what curl type you have can play a role in the products you choose for your hair. I tend to find I like creams on my wavy hair with just a little bit of gel. But I use gel a lot more in the salon on curlier hair types.
They are labelled by a number and letter.
Wavy ranging from 1-2a-2b
Curly ranging from 2c-3a-3b
Kinky ranging from 3c-4a-4b-4c
I will talk more on this in another post to you can better understand which curl type your hair is.
CGM
Stands for curly girl method
Custard
A thick styling product. Usually in replacement of a gel.
Coiling
A technique used with your fingers to twist and define your curls while they are wet to create springier curls.
I actually use this method a lot if im finding the curls aren’t forming well while wet. It also helps to stick down any shorter bits of hair that may create frizz once its dry.
Deep conditioning
This is a thick product designed to stay on your hair for at least 30mins to inject moisture into the hair shaft.
Denman brush
A Denman brush is used as one of the styling techniques. I learnt this technique from a curly hairdresser called Manes by Mel. She does lots of videos and is great to watch for styling tips. Although she isn’t strictly curly girl.
I dont however do my Denman brush styling in the same way she does as im usually working in a salon environment with time frames that don’t necessarily support long styling techniques. I will definitely do a video soon to demonstrate my technique in the salon then my technique at home.
Diffuser
An attachment for your hairdryer that is designed to dry curly hair without blasting your curls with directional air which 1 ruins your curls but 2 creates a lot of frizz. There are some cheap tip like putting a sock over the end of your hairdryer that can work as well but im all about using the right equipment so I haven’t tried it before.
Drying Alcohols
Drying alcohols to avoid are:
- Ethanol alcohol
- Ethyl alcohol
- Propanol alcohol
- Alcohol denat
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Isopropanol alcohol
- Benzyl alcohol
Finger Combing
As simple as combing your hair with your fingers. Best done in the shower with conditioner or treatment with lots of water in your hair also.
You can also finger comb and detangle on dry hair as well.
Fluff
Fluffing is when you use your fingers to break up the curl at your roots to create volume.
Final Wash
This is your last wash with a sulphate shampoo to remove any build up that might be on your hair before beginning the curly girl method. It gives you a clean slate for your curly products to properly absorb into your hair.
Its not part of the curly girl method but seems to have made its way to forums, blogs and social media groups as a last way to get rid of silicones from your hair.
Flaxseed Gel
You can either make your own flaxseed gel or buy a gel that is a flaxseed gel base. Personally im a bit lazy so I have bought it in the past. I don’t think its right for every curl type so maybe if you’re wanting to try it out to see if it suits your curls then make a batch first.
I have found in the past it to be great on thicker hair types with frizz.
Gelatin Treatment
By now you’re probably realising there is a few pantry ingredients you can use on your hair. Well gelatin is another. You can make a protein treatment which does give great results. It can be quite a lengthy process though so I tend to just stick with a protein rich treatment.
Glycerin
Glycerin is a highly effective humectant, which means it will attract, absorb and retain moisture from the atmosphere. This can be great if your hair is on the dryer side. Just be a little careful on those really humid days though as your hair may start reaching for the moisture which will create frizz.
Gel
The reason you want to use gel is to help stick those clumps together while you’re drying your hair.
I like to apply my styling products on dripping wet hair, this way it retains more moisture.
2nd Day hair
You may come across a lot of talk about wash day, 2nd day, 3rd day.
Im sure you have figured out by now that it just means the days following your wash day.
Some curly’s will have routines for the days following their wash day to help tame any frizz and disheveled curls. Keeping your curls in the best health possible is the best way. Using items like a silk pillow case or silk bonnet will help stop any damage done while you’re sleeping.
ACV rinse (apple cider vinegar)
ACV rinses are great for when you think your hair is getting a bit product heavy, greasy or too much of a good thing like protein is just not letting those curls sit the way they should. Yes you can over do protein and over do moisture so make sure to figure out a good balance of the two.
Be sure to do a deep moisture treatment after an ACV rinse.
Mix a couple of tablespoons of apple cider vinegar in with water and pop it in your hair for a few minutes while in the shower. Give your scalp a good rub as well to lift any oil and dirt building up on the scalp. Rinse and do a moisture treatment.
I know im all about simplifying thing and as you can see there is a lot to know but i assure you that you don’t need to do all these things and if you do they will become second nature and a lot of them you wont necessarily think about doing. So maybe stick firstly with the main things Cleanse, condition and style. Its all about getting your hair healthy so ditch the hot tools and embrace those curls.